Reviving Former Japanese Culture Through AI Photography: A talk with Emi Kusano

The Tokyo-based creative discusses her ongoing project, Neural Fad, which blends AI technology with photography to generate time-paradoxal visuals.

Neural Fad, Emi Kusano & AI, 2023

I first met Emi through her Web3 anime project, Shinsei Galverse, and we hit it off over our shared interest in digital art and otaku culture. Her love for Japanese pop culture and eccentric fashion began on the streets of Harajuku and led her to become the lead singer of Satellite Young, a Synthwave trio that performed as a fictional 80s idol. Emi's unique blend of technology and art challenges our perceptions of reality and imagination, making her a force to be reckoned with within the Tokyo emergent creative scene.

One year ago (almost to the day), Emi's anime IP and NFT co-funded project, Galverse, was released and quickly rose to the top of the OpenSea rankings for several days. As a result, it became the first Japanese Web3 project to gain recognition outside the country. Emi has since become a leading voice in the Japanese NFT community and has been invited to speak on prime-time TV programs and Web3 & NFT events. Next month, her AI-generated photography side project, Neural Fad, will be showcased during Bright Moments Tokyo, providing a nostalgic trip down memory lane for anyone interested in Showa-era culture. I reached out to her to get some insights.

Benoit: GM Emi! Can you tell me more about Neural Fad, and what inspired you to explore these themes?

Emi: GM! As the daughter of a fashion designer, I've been fascinated by fashion from a young age, particularly the distinctive styles of different eras. My interest led me to collaborate with AI on Neural Fad, which sought to recreate various Japanese fashion tribes from the post-war period to the 2000s. From the Moga/Mobo of the 1940s to the native Japanese hippies (Fūten-zoku) of the 60s-70s, and from the Yankees and idols of the 80s to the Gal and Decora styles of the 90s, I aimed to capture Japan's unique and aspirational culture. 

This culture, which magazines heavily influenced, has faded over time due to globalization and the rise of the internet. I saw this decline firsthand as a teenage street photographer in the late 2000s, when fast fashion brands like Zara and H&M entered Japan and displaced local brands, losing distinct styles and unique magazines.

Neural Fad, Emi Kusano & AI, 2023

How did you use technology and AI to create your images, and what technical challenges did you face along the way?

Since the beginning of this year, I've been using various AI tools daily. At first, finding consistency in my work was challenging, but as I continued to create, my personal style emerged. To generate images, I used ChatGPT and wrote detailed prompts explaining what I wanted to visualize. Interestingly, prompts with spelling mistakes or unusual grammar produced unique and bizarre photos, making the trial-and-error process enjoyable. However, I faced challenges when imagining Japan-specific proper nouns in prompts written in English. I adjusted my approach and checked multiple references to pursue a uniquely Japanese style.

Can you describe how the 80s/90s  and Japanese youth culture played a role in shaping your artistic vision for this project?

The power of nostalgia played a significant role in forming my artistic vision for this project. I enjoy looking at old portrait photos, especially those of young people wearing outrageous outfits, as they capture the atmosphere of the time. These images often convey conflicting emotions, such as the desire to rebel against authority or to be recognized within a particular group. I love discerning such attitudes from clothing choices. Observing these portraits of young people evokes an emotional response, reminding us of the fleeting nature of life and youth.

How did you choose the specific fashion styles to incorporate into your images, and what message do you hope to convey through them?

For this collection, I recreated specific fashion styles that were popular among Japanese youth in different eras, using my prompt engineering skills. It's ironic yet interesting to reconstruct a culture that was lost due to algorithms, using AI. To add a unique twist to each era's fashion, I incorporated elements of Japanese futurism, reflecting the hopes and aspirations for the future that were prevalent during each period.

Neural Fad, Emi Kusano & AI, 2023

Can you discuss the significance of the time paradox theme and how it relates to the broader cultural context in Japan and beyond?

The concept of time paradox has been significant to me since elementary school when I first became fascinated with 1970s-80s idols. As a child, I rented CDs and videos from rental shops, and later, as a store clerk, I spent a lot of time watching old TV programs on YouTube. However, these programs were recorded in the past, and I couldn't attend the idols' live performances. This created a virtual and post-truth-like feeling, as I couldn't experience the past firsthand.

To me, the past feels like a futuristic existence. In this project, I reflect on Japanese futurism in each era, incorporating various aspects of science fiction, such as household robots in the 1940s and monsters in the 1970s, occult and sci-fi in the 1980s, and pop monsters in the 1990s. For instance, characters like Astro Boy heavily influenced the concept of robots as friends for Japanese people from that time.

Through the theme of time paradox, I explore the connections between Japan and other cultural contexts, showcasing how Japan's unique futurism has evolved and continues to influence today's cultural landscape. The project offers a fresh perspective on Japanese culture while highlighting the interplay between past and future.

What are your expectations for exhibiting your project at  Bright Moments Tokyo? How do you hope viewers will engage with your work?

I want to provoke thought in the audience by encouraging them to ponder what the youth in these fictional photos were thinking and what kind of future they envisioned. I hope that they will explore the cultural references and immerse themselves in the atmosphere of Shibuya and Harajuku. Furthermore, I think that it would be fascinating to contemplate the potential emergence of new neural fads in the future.

Finally, what do you hope Neural Fad will contribute to the conversation about the intersection of technology, fashion, and youth culture? How do you see it fitting into the broader cultural landscape?

I hope many will enjoy my work and contribute to this convo. Retro-futurism is a universally appealing theme; countless fictional photos of the past likely exist worldwide.

Many AI-generated photos are out there, but many lack context or present an Orientalist view of Japan as a wonderland, especially when created by non-Japanese artists. As a Japanese person, I aim to celebrate my own culture and reflect Japanese values in my work by expressing the uniqueness of Japanese fashion through AI.

By showcasing Japan's fashion distinctiveness through AI, I want to elevate my creations while celebrating my culture and reflecting the values of Japanese people during those times. This approach will help my work fit into the broader cultural landscape while remaining authentic and engaging.

Thanks Emi!  (ノ◕ヮ◕)ノ*:・゚✧ <3

SHARE THIS ARTICLE
Benoit Palop

Benoit is a project coordinator, digital content strategist, writer, and curator based in Tokyo, Japan, with over 10 years of working experience. Originally from the south of France, he has lived in various cities around the world, including Paris, NYC, Miami, and Montreal. He has been exploring web (sub)culture and digital art since the early aughts and deepened his knowledge with an intensive academic journey, including a Master's degree in research in digital media from Sorbonne University in Paris. He has collaborated with companies, studios, and media outlets such as SuperRare, MUTEK, VICE, i-D, the Society for Arts and Technology, Club Media, YD, and The Creators Project (a collaboration between VICE and Intel), to name a few. Through curatorial projects, research, and writing, he enjoys exploring virtual worlds and decentralized networks. He is also passionate about discussing NFTs, anime, and ramen.

Previous
Previous

Zero10: The Next Generation's Augmented Reality Fashion App

Next
Next

Fashion Designer Starostyuk Igor talks sustainability & NFTs